It is slightly smaller than the regular 3.5 one.
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Here is the jack i found. 2.5mm stereo. The same kind you'll find on some home phones or cell phones for headsets. It is slightly smaller than the regular 3.5 one. |
| And guess what..... the nut fits itself snuglly inside
the viewer hole. The integration is perfect without cutting anything ! Once that's done, solder the 3 wires of the top section to the plug. |
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Here is the hardware for the remote. A small plastic project box, 2 small push buttons and 2 small toggle switches (optionnal, i use them for the locking function). |
| The wiring is very easy : Consider pin 1 (as labeled earlier) as the ground, pin 3 as the AF and pin 4 as the release. On this picture, pin 1 is green, pin 3 is blue and pin 4 is white. IMPORTANT : The first cable i used was a standard stereo cable : 2 wires with a shield around them. For some reason the camera wouldn't work properly for the focusing part : it would actually take a picture directly. I guess the ground (pin 1) connected to the shield of the cable was messing around as the cable has an impedance. I finally used a multi wire cable, without shield (you need 3 wires... even if yours is shielded, avoid using the shield). |
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The soldering of the jack. Just solder with a color code that matches what you did on the other side of the plug. Try to remember where you put the ground (pin 1) |
| The remote finished. When you hold it cable down in your hand, the left part is the AF control. The right part is the release control. |
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The project finished and cabled. It works very well and does not look too bad. The best thing is that no parts of the body were drilled or modified. The process is completelly reversible. Enjoy ! |